In case you missed it, you can catch up on our adventures in Part 1: Saigon and delve into the stories of Can Tho and Dalat in Part 2. Now buckle up for the final leg of a 5-week trip through Vietnam with us. We take another wild bus ride – this time it’s 15 hours long, arriving at the picturesque town of Hoi An, a UNESCO heritage site, right in time for a lively food festival. We pedal through the streets and fields, feast on Banh-Mis, and soak up the sun on the shores of the South China Sea. We then take another long bus trip from Hoi An to Hanoi and roam the bustling city streets and tiny hidden alleys of the capital in search of the best egg coffee in town.
“They say whatever you’re looking for, you will find here. They say you come to Vietnam and you understand a lot in a few minutes, but the rest has got to be lived. The smell: that’s the first thing that hits you, promising everything in exchange for your soul. And the heat. You can hardly remember your name, or what you came to escape from.”
– Graham Greene
Not Another Bus Ride!
Ah, Vietnam, the land of pho, beautiful landscapes, and death-defying bus rides. As mentioned in Part 2, we had the option to fly from Dalat to Hoi An, but of course, we went for the cheaper option. For a mere $15, we were in for a 15-hour ride (with a layover in Nha Trang). You see, our night bus from Saigon to Dalat had already put us through the wringer with its break-neck speeds and reckless overtaking on blind curves – we were practically holding on for dear life, eyes closed, questioning our life choices.
So, naturally, we just had to take another bus ride to see if they were all the same. Spoiler alert – yes, they were. We took four long-distance buses in Vietnam and each of them tested our sanity (but obviously not quite enough to make us shell out for flights).
The Sunflower Walls of Hoi An
We arrived at our destination in one piece. Hoi An was love at first sight. This charming, ancient town is one of the UNESCO World Heritage spots, a photographer’s dream famous for its well-preserved, yellow-walled buildings, and colorful lanterns. Through it runs a beautiful historic waterway system of rivers and canals that were once an important trading route. Some are lined with beautiful old houses, others are home to fishing boats and floating markets. You can take a boat ride on the river to see Hoi An’s ancient town from a different perspective.
As we walked into our $10-a-night guest house, we were pleasantly surprised to find a room that could give many a high-end hotel a run for its money. A private bathroom, balcony, and a lovely bed that felt like a hug from a long-lost friend – all for the price of a fast-food meal back home. Breakfast in the garden courtyard and bicycles to explore the city and beaches were included. After a much-needed shower, we took a nap and woke up to find it was already dark. We read that Hoi An is magical (and safe) at night so we ventured out.
The glow of lamps from across the bridge drew us in like moths to a porch light. As we often do, we stumbled upon a celebration in full swing. The Hoi An Sculpture Garden was transformed into a colorful lantern-lit International Food Festival. It featured renowned chefs from all over the world, including the esteemed Viktor Belyaev, who fed the big shots at the Kremlin Palace for over three decades. He whipped up bliny (Russian pancakes) for the audience. The Indian chef slow-cooked goat curry over a fire and Sri Lankan spices filled the air.
It was like a party in foodie heaven, with live music, dancing, and more food than you could possibly try. The chefs learned about the Vietnamese culture and ingredients, and the Hoi An people got to travel the world through their taste buds.
Hoi An by day is also lovely. As you roam the streets, you’ll see the beautiful, wooden Japanese Covered Bridge built in the 17th century to pin down the giant underground catfish monster, whose head lies under India, the body under Vietnam and its tail reaches as far as Japan. It causes earthquakes when it wiggles. We call it, much less poetically, a fault line. They knew about its existence hundreds of years ago.
Hoi An Tailored to Your Liking
If you’re ready to indulge your inner fashionista or regularly have a problem finding clothes that fit you well, Hoi An’s tailor shops can make the perfect garment just for you for less than you’d pay for an off-the-rack item in the West. I regret not having clothes made there. I should’ve gotten a whole travel wardrobe of mix-and-match, modifiable items with clever secret pockets and hidden compartments that would look appropriate both in a tuk-tuk and on a business class flight, while also making my ass look great. Kashlee Kucheran, on the other hand, dove right in, put several tailor shops to the test and wrote a great guide on getting custom clothing made in Hoi An.
Another great thing about Hoi An is its proximity to the beaches. We decided to cycle. As we got closer to An Bang beach, the salty sea air tickled our noses. The path took us through vegetable gardens and rice fields and a couple of times we had to pause for water buffalos to cross. We parked our bicycles and the sea breeze instantly cooled us from the sweaty ride. We got a fresh coconut to quench our thirst and spread out our towels on public beach chairs. There were kids splashing around in the waves and some lovely bars and restaurants lining the shore. Soon we dove into the warm ocean ourselves. Then we picked an eatery, ordered a plate of fried squid and mango cocktails, and ate with our toes in the sand. As the sun began to set, we hopped on our bikes and headed back to town, enjoying the quiet countryside.
The Bahn Mi Calamity
The best Banh-Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) in the world are said to lurk in the streets of Hoi An. The legends are true. The bread is fresh with a crispy crust and the fillings are decadent – succulent fatty pork belly, slow-cooked liver pate, roasted meats, a meadly of fresh herbs, and delicious homemade sauces.
After having feasted on these delicious sandwiches all over Vietnam, we have to say that Hoi An’s reputation as the Bahn Mi capital is well deserved. We even found ourselves standing in line at Banh Mi Phuong (more than once, I must admit), the legendary eatery that Anthony Bourdain himself crowned as the maker of the world’s best Banh Mi. Before our departure to Hanoi (yes, by bus, again), we armed ourselves with 4 of our favorite Bahn Mi, a shining light on our upcoming 16-hour ride.
However, as soon as we stepped foot onto the bus, we realized: The Banh Mi! Our beloved Banh Mi! They were not with us. They were comfortably resting in the depths of the guesthouse fridge, blissfully unaware of the epic journey they were destined to embark on. How could we have forgotten? The flavors, the textures, the sheer delight that those sandwiches promised. Perhaps they fulfilled their destiny, bringing joy and satiation to an unexpecting soul. Let this be a cautionary tale for all sandwich enthusiasts out there. Double, no, triple-check your belongings to make sure your treasures are with you.
Dive into the world of the best Banh-mis here.
Egg Coffee, nothing to be yolked about
We became completely obsessed with the decadent egg coffee. We’ve seen half-hearted coffee drinkers turn into coffee devotees after their frist sip. There’s no turning back. If it wasn’t for our burning desire to sample every dish in Vietnam, we’d be tempted to survive solely on this heavenly concoction. The strong, aromatic Vietnamese coffee topped with a thick, velvety layer of egg yolks whipped with condensed milk result in unparalleled decadence and lusciousness that will leave you forever spoiled. It will become the golden standard against which all other cups of joe will be measured.
Hoi An to Hanoi
After another overnight journey (16 hrs for $17) from Hoi An, the bus dropped us off in Hanoi at the crack of dawn. The city was waking up. Groups of friends gathered for dance classes in their elegant clothes, while others gracefully practiced tai-chi. The sense of community was undeniable even in this metropolis.
A Bit of Hanoi’s Past
Hanoi sits on the western bank of the Red River in northern Vietnam and boasts a rich and eventful history. As the capital of Vietnam’s Ly dynasty, Hanoi (called Thang Long -“Rising Dragon” at that time), was the country’s primary seat of power from the year 1010 until 1802, when the capital was moved south to Hue by the Nguyen, the last Vietnamese dynasty. In 1831, they renamed the city Ha Noi (“Between Two Rivers”).
However, Hanoi regained its significance under French rule and was designated as the capital of French Indochina in 1902. The city endured the destruction of many monuments during the Vietnam (or American, as they call it) War due to U.S. bombings. Hanoi emerged as the capital of North Vietnam after the French defeat in 1954. Since the reunification of Vietnam in 1976, Hanoi has steadily rebuilt itself, witnessing the growth of its industrial base. The city celebrated its 1,000th anniversary in October 2010, a testament to its resilience.
Penthouse room for $14
After our morning brew topped with inches of whipped egg yolks, we navigated through the lively streets and arrived at our hotel. We were greeted by a friendly receptionist who showed us the way to the top floor, our little penthouse paradise. Three walls were filled with windows that flooded the space with light and there was a small balcony overlooking the city’s rooftops. Having a private bathroom and the complimentary buffet breakfast was the cherry on top, all at a price of $14 per night. Plus, the location was perfect, right in the heart of the city, close to the pretty Ho Hoan Kiem lake.
The Legend of the Lake
Legend has it that in the mid-15th century, Emperor Le Loi received a heavenly sword that helped him defeat the Chinese invaders and bring peace to Vietnam. One day, when he was boating on a lake in the center of Hanoi, a giant golden turtle reclaimed the sword and disappeared into the depths. From then on, the lake has been called Ho Hoan Kiem. the Lake of the Restored Sword.
The best time to visit is on weekends when the area is closed to traffic and becomes a lively funfair, much appreciated by both the residents and travelers. From dawn to late into the night, people can be found exercising, dancing, and mingling along the peaceful lakeshore, a little slice of Zen in the heart of bustling Hanoi. As you take a leisurely stroll, you’ll stumble upon centuries-old temples, pagodas, bridges, and intriguing inscriptions, newlyweds striking poses for their wedding photos, and, as across all of Vietnam, enthusiastic youngsters on a mission to practice their English. They’re genuinely interested, polite as can be, and have a serious hunger for knowledge.
Tube Houses
Just like Hoi An, Hanoi is not afraid to show its age, with lovely colonial buildings, tall and narrow tube houses, and tiny alleyways that lead to unexpected treasures. We spent our days with no set plans, happily getting lost on a daily bases, stumbling across excellent markets, eateries, and coffee shops, and letting Hanoi surprise us.
Vietnamese tube houses, those colorful and narrow architectural wonders, define the urban landscape of Hanoi. They are like vertical jigsaw puzzles, fitting perfectly into the limited space available in a big city.
Hanoi’s vibrant Old Quarter is filled with rows of these slender houses. They stand, like colorful dominos, no wider than a few meters each, but stretching several stories high. Narrow facades lead to a maze of rooms that go on and on, like a hall of mirrors. They show Vietnamese ingenuity, solving for the lack of space and finances, since the size of the facade determined how much one owed in taxes.
Inside, families create cozy living spaces, utilizing every nook and cranny. Ground floors often bustle with tiny shops and cafes, while the upper floors are private quarters. Natural light and fresh air find their way in through tiny courtyards, balconies, or even roof-top gardens.
As you stroll along the streets, the energy spills out from these narrow houses. Shop owners chat with neighbors, the smell of food and clanking of dishes fill the air, secrets tucked away behind every door. Vietnamese tube houses are not just structures, they’re living stories.
Hanoi’s Egg Coffee (just when you thought it couldn’t get any better)
Our quest for the ultimate egg coffee proved to be a delicious challenge. Hanoi takes this delicious creation and turns it up to 11 by throwing rum into the mix. Each coffee shop had its own unique twist, making it difficult to choose. To find your own egg coffee haven, you’ll need to explore for yourself. I just offer this advice: When looking for good coffee or food, don’t let yourself be deterred by dingy-looking hallways and unassuming staircases. They often lead to the most delightful discoveries.
On a Tight Budget
While mapping out our 5-week adventure in Vietnam, we decided on a tight budget: $15/night for accommodation, $10/day for food, and up to $200/month for transportation and fun extras. That amounted to $32/day ($975/month)- for the two of us, mind you, not per person. To our surprise and delight, our budget proved to be overly generous as we consistently spent well below it. We stayed in lovely rooms with private bathrooms for $10-$15/night, including breakfast. By following the locals to their favorite eateries, we not only enjoyed authentic meals but also had plenty left over in our food budget. And even though traveling by local busses cost us a bit of sanity, it saved us a lot of cash.
To top it off, after our time in Vietnam, we hopped on a bus to Laos for our first Workaway volunteering experience. In exchange of 5hrs of work a day, we got free room and board. For five weeks, we immersed ourselves in the community, teaching English to Lao buffalo farmers, assisting with mozzarella making, and learning the ropes of setting up fundraising campaigns. We saved money, connected with the locals, and gained valuable skills along the way. Read about it here: Workaway: Eat, Sleep, Stay for Free
Vietnam Recap
Our escapades through Vietnam, South to North, revealed places of wonderful contrasts, one of the most delicious cuisines on the planet, lush, green countryside, smart and charming locals, and hair-raising traffic.
From the noisy streets of Saigon to the fascinating floating markets in Can Tho, the serene beauty of Dalat, the historical charm of Hoi An, and the lively energy of Hanoi, each city had its own distinctive vibe.
In the south, the buzzing Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) welcomed us with free beer, modern buildings, and remnants of history etched in its architecture. Read all about it in Part 1, if you skipped it. Can Tho, nestled in the Mekong Delta, showed us a lush, serene world where the ebb and flow of the river and the floating market influenced the essence of local life. In the South, people were quick to laugh, help and create a heartfelt connection.
As we traveled north, the cool highlands of Dalat unfolded, green with coffee plantations, vegetable and flower gardens, and waterfalls. Popular with honeymooners, the town is pretty, and quirky. Read about Can Tho and Dalat in Part 2.
Continuing our journey, we arrived at mesmerizing Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its well-preserved ancient town of yellow-painted houses. Roaming its narrow alleys, we found ourselves transported back in time, evenings lit by the soft glow of colorful lanterns adding to the romantic ambiance.
Finally, we traveled from Hoi An to Hanoi, the capital city with centuries-old temples, markets brimming with life, quiet lakes, busy streets, and narrow tube houses.
Despite covering over 1300 miles (about 2100 km), it feels like we only dipped our toes into this incredible country. Vietnam, you’ve left us craving for more. We’re hooked and already itching to go back.
